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 Practical Projects for Students.

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Table of Contents

Job Sheet Name

Grade

 

Page Number

 

 

 

 

Safety Sheet - - READ IT

All

 

1

Drill and Thread Steel Project

10

 

2

Making Gaskets

10

 

3

Spare Tire Change

10

 

4

Tire Machine

10/11

 

5

Balance a Tire

10/11

 

6

Patch a Nail Hole in a Tire

10/11

 

7

Remove & Replace a Wheel

10

 

8

Radiator Testing

10

 

9

Alternator Testing

10/11

 

10

Charge Battery w/Charger

10

 

11

Load Test Battery

10

 

12

Booster Cable Connections

10

 

13

Adjust Tire Pressures

10

 

14

Remove and Replace Wipers

10

 

15

Remove & Replace Front Brake Pads

10/11

 

16

Wash and Clean a Car

10/11

 

17

Remove and Replace Alternator

11

 

18

Coolant Condition Test
11
 
19

Remove and Replace Thermostat

11

 

20

Clean and Pack Wheel Bearings

11

 

21

Remove and Replace Engine Belt

11

 

22

Remove and Replace Radiator

11

 

23

Re & Re McPherson Strut

11

 

24

Remove and Clean Air Filter

10/11

 

25

Replace Ignition Wires

11

 

26

Testing Fuses

11

 

27

Wiper Arm Removal

11

 

28

OBD Scanner

11

 

29

Under-Hood Inspections

11

 

30

Remove and Replace Spark Plugs

11

 

31

Disassemble Alternator

11

 

32

Disassemble Alternator Questions

11

 

33

Disassemble Starter

11

 

34

Disassemble Starter Work Sheet
11
 

35

Paint Scratch Removal
10/11
 

36

Oil Change
10/11
 

37

Oil Change 20 Point Inspection Form
10/11
 

38

Safety Inspection Points
11/12
 

39

Exhaust System Inspection
10/11
 

40

Wire Connections - Crimping
10/11
 

41

Wire Connections - Soldering
10/11
 

42

Vehicle Information Form
10/11/12
 

43

Replacing Tie Rod Ends
11/12
 

44

Amperage Test at Fuse Panel
11/12
 

45

Transmission Filter Change

11/12

 

46

 

 

 

 

 

 

READ FIRST
Safety Section

All of the jobs in the booklet or electronic format have safety factors that need to be addressed before the job is undertaken.
Before any student is permitted to perform the job chosen, that student must have been present for the demonstration of the job by the teacher.
These work sheets are guidelines only and are written to cover a variety of vehicles and work environments.
Safety glasses must be worn for all of the jobs.
If a lifting device is used, the teacher must approve the use before the job is done.
If electrical work is done, the battery must be disconnected.
If charging system work is being performed, connectors must be connected properly.
If chemicals are being used, follow the proper WHMIS guidelines.

If a student is not following the proper safety procedures, they will be asked to stop and take a seat.

Safety is no accident.

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Job Name: Steel Bracket Project.

Using ¾” X 1/8” steel flat bar, fabricate the bracket pictured.

Step 1) Cut a piece of flat bar to the required length – 8CM. It is better to make it slightly larger in order to file it to the exact size.

Step 2) Mark out the centre position of the drilled hole and centre punch it. Mark out the lines where you will ‘brake’ the bracket to 90 degrees. (Brake is a term for bending)

Step 3) Drill a hole using a 3/16” or a 7/32” drill bit.

Step 4) Clamp the bracket into a vice and tap the hole to ¼”X20 threads.

Step 5) Reposition the bracket in the vice and heat using the torch at the brake line. Do only one line at a time.

Step 6) Reposition the bracket in the vice and heat using the torch at the second brake line.

Step 7) Wash, clean and dry the bracket.

Step 8) Paint the bracket with spray paint.

Click here for a drawing of the part you will make.

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Job Name: Make Two Gaskets

Tools Required: Hammer and Scissors

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too gain the ability to create a new gasket when a new is not available. A gasket is a fibre material that is needed to prevent liquids, air, gases or fuels from leaking on a vehicle system. Leaks can be internal or external. Gaskets are found on every engine and in many other places such as windows.

Job Description:
Start with blank lined or unlined paper.
Get a suitable component to make a gasket on. A brake rotor is a good part since it can handle many attempts to make a gasket.

  • Find the bolting surface of the brake rotor and lay the paper over that area.
  • Using slightly dirty hands rub the surface of the paper transferring the image onto the paper.
  • Use a ball-peen hammer and gently tap the surface of the paper at the detail areas of the part.
  • The paper will begin to cut at every stroke of the hammer.
  • Cut out all the holes and make a circle that is exactly the same as the upper surface of the part. 

Part Two

  • Do the same initial steps but instead of using a hammer use a pair of scissors to make the same gasket out of paper.
  • You will find it may be harder to make an exact gasket with scissors but do your best.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Hand in both gaskets along with a short ‘write-up’ with your name on the gaskets and the write-up.

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Job Name: Spare Tire Change

Tools Required: All tools should be found in the trunk area. Lug Wrench, Jack, Jack Handle, Spare Tire.

Time Required: 40 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the knowledge required to replace a flat tire in a safe environment instead of on the shoulder of a busy freeway.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car that has all the equipment in the trunk.

  • Locate the instructions for the tire change. These should be in the owner’s manual and on the spare tire storage panel.
  • Apply parking brake and put transmission in park.
  • Locate wheel nut lock key if required.
  • Position jack in the indicated slot of the vehicle frame. Do not lift yet.
  • Loosen all the wheel nuts about one full turn only.
  • Raise jack and car until the wheel is off the ground enough to see an air gap under the tire.
  • Position a safety stand under the car – in an emergency situation a safety stand is not always available but while in the school a stand will be used.
  • Finish removing all the wheel nuts and place them in your pocket not on the ground.
  • Remove the flat tire and place it under the car – this is to act as a safety stand if the car falls.
  • Install the spare tire and install the wheel nuts as far as possible.
  • Lower the jack and car until the wheel is on the ground and the jack is loose.
  • Tighten all the wheel nuts with all of your body weight.
  • Have your teacher inspect your work to this point.
  • Now replace everything to its original location.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Tire Machine

Tools Required: Tire Machine, Wheel Weight Remover, Valve Core Remover, Tire Pressure Gauge, Soapy Water.

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too gain the ability to replace a set of tires if they wear out. This same process is required for repairing a nail hole from the inside of the tire.

Job Description:
Start with suitable tire and rim combination.

  • Place onto the tire machine properly with the locating pin in a wheel stud hole and the lock cone installed.
  • Release the air using the valve core remover.
  • Remove all the wheel weights on the upper ridge of the rim.
  • Place the ‘upper bead breaker’ on the tire (not the rim) and when all the air has expelled it is safe to press the right pedal and break the beads from the rim.
  • Once the beads are free of the rim you must now remove the upper bead by using the tire bar.
  • Lubricate the tire bead with soapy water
  • The bar is inserted with the straight end first.
  • Lift on the tire as in the demonstration with you right hand and hold the bar onto the centre post with your left hand.
  • Repeat for the lower bead.
  • Now the tire should be off of the rim.
  • To reinstall you must switch ends of the tire bar.
  • The tire bead must be as low as possible on the rim or reinstallation can not be performed.
  • Start with the lower bead then the upper bead.
  • Once the tire is installed it is time to seat the beads.
  • Air up the tire to 30 PSI or until the tire “Bangs/Snaps” into position.
  • Reinstall the valve core after the beads have been seated.
  • Air up the tire to 32 PSI and measure with the pressure gauge.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Complete a write-up and hand in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Wheel Balancer

Tools Required: Wheel Balancer Machine, Wheel Weight Remover, Tire Pressure Gauge, Wheel Weights.

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too make sure the tire/wheel combinations is balanced radially to prevent bouncing and vibration while driving on the road. This also prevents tire wear.

Job Description:
Start with a suitable wheel and tire combination.
Place onto the wheel balancer using the correct mounting hardware.
Hardware Process;

  • Spring with large end onto shaft first
  • Correct sized cone (won’t fall through wheel centre and still enters the centre) with the large end first.
  • Wheel with inboard side first
  • Plastic spacer cone
  • Clamping Wing Nut.

Now that the wheel is mounted correctly onto the machine it is time to tell the machine what size wheel you are using. You must set the three knobs to the correct numbers.
Top Knob – Wheel Diameter > Found in the tire size, ie: P245/70R15. 15 is the wheel diameter.
Centre Knob - Rim Width > Measure this using the large black calliper.
Bottom Knob – Rim back space > Measure this using the sliding ruler on the machine.

  • Spin the wheel and tire using the spinning knob on the clamping wing nut.
  • The tire will stop on its own and the needed weights will be recorded.
  • Spin the tire slowly to determine where the weight is needed.
  • If both arrows in the read out are on the left that means the weight is required on the inboard side of the rim.
  • Hammer on the correct weights in the correct location and retest by spinning the wheel.
  • If you see 0.00 while it spins this means that it is correctly balanced and not further work is required.

Make a write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Patch a Hole in a Tire

Tools Required: Tire Machine, Wheel Weight Remover, Valve Core Remover, Tire Pressure Gauge, Patch Roller, Vulcanizing Cement, Patch.

Time Required: 45 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too be able to repair your own tires when road hazards have harmed the tire. This prevents the need for new tires whenever you have a slow air leak.

Job Description:
Perform the entire job called Tire Machine.

  • Locate the nail hole first before removing the air from the tire.
  • Soapy water will assist in locating the hole.
  • Sand the inside of the tire around the hole with a 10CM radius.
  • When evenly sanded apply a coat of Vulcanizing Tire Cement.
  • Allow this cement to dry – 10 minutes.
  • Apply the new patch making sure your fingers never touch the contact surface of the patch or the dried cement.
  • Using the patch roller force the patch into the tire with pressure.
  • Reinstall the tire onto the rim and test for leaks.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Remove and Reinstall a Wheel

Tools Required: Torque Wrench, socket, extension, Johnson bar, Lug Wrench.

Time Required: 20 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too gain the ability to rotate your own tires or install your own winter tires.

Job Description:
Start with a suitable car with the wheels properly mounted on the spindles.

  • Remove the hub cap or wheel nut covers.
  • Locate the correct seized socket for the wheel nuts.
  • Common sizes are 17MM (BMW/VW) 19MM (most cars) 13/16 for some rare applications.
  • Use a Breaker Bar/Johnson Bar/Lug Wrench/Air tool to remove the wheel from the car. Be careful not to lose the nuts.
  • During reinstallation make sure you do not use the air tool unless you are very experienced with its use.
  • Use hand tools to reinstall the wheel nuts in a “star” pattern.
  • Use a torque wrench to torque the wheel nuts to 90 ft/lbs.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Torque is a measure of rotational force. By tightening the wheel nuts evenly it will prevent the wheels from coming loose, brake rotor and wheel damage.

This job is expected to be done on a minimum of four wheels.

Make a write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Radiator Pressure Test

Tools Required: Radiator Pressure Tester, Radiator Adapter.

Time Required: 10 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to determine whether or not the cooling system is leaking or not. When the system is pressurized it simulates a running engine in normal operating mode. If the cooling system leaks the boiling point will decrease and fluid will be lost resulting in engine damage.

Job Description:
Start with a car with a complete cooling system and a COLD or COOL engine. DO NOT attempt this test on a hot engine.

  • Locate the radiator pressure cap
  • Read the maximum operating pressure on the cap (15 PSI)
  • Attach the pressure tester to the radiator
  • Pump the tester until the gauge reaches the cap pressure
  • Look and search for leaks in the  cooling system
  • Let the system and pressure tester stand for 5 minutes
  • Look again for leaks.
  • If not leaks on the ground or no ‘hissing’ sounds are present then it operating fine.
  • Remove the pressure tester and reattach the radiator pressure cap.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location
Complete a write-up and hand in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Alternator Voltage Test

Tools Required: Voltmeter, battery pliers.
                                   
Time Required: 10 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too be able to test the operation of the alternator to see if it is recharging the battery or if the alternator is defective.

Job Description:
Start with a car that will start and run. Begin with the engine turned off.

  • Connect the red connector of the voltmeter to the + positive post of the battery.
  • Connect the black connector of the voltmeter to the – negative post of the battery.
  • Read and record the voltage before you start the engine.
  • Now start the engine and record the reading.
  • The first reading should be around 12 volts
  • The second reading should be around 14 volts.
  • If the voltage does not rise while running the engine the alternator is not working correctly.
  • Another way to test the alternator is to remove the negative battery cable connection while the engine is running. If the engine stalls the alternator is not working. If it continues to run this means the alternator is creating voltage for the engine management system to keep it running.
  • Do both methods and record your results.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Battery Charger Connection

Tools Required: Extension Cord, Battery Charger

Time Required: 10 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too gain the ability to start a car when the battery is dead. Another reason is sometimes extensive work needs to be done on the electrical system and voltage may need to be added to the battery while doing the work.

Job Description:
Start with a car that has a properly functioning electrical system.

  • Wheel the battery charger to the battery mounted in the car.
  • Do NOT plug the unit into the extension cord yet.
  • Connect the red connector of the Battery Charger to the + positive post of the battery.
  • Connect the black connector of the Battery Charger to the – negative post of the battery.
  • Make sure the Battery Charger Timer is set to zero and the switches are turned off
  • Connect the Charger to the extension cord.
  • Set the switches to On and 2 AMPS.
  • Set the timer to ten minutes. This will put a slow, safe charge into the battery.
  • If a fast charge is needed set the Battery Charger to Boost Mode. This can only be done for a minute of two or else battery damage will occur.
  • Check the state of charge with a voltmeter when finished (see Alternator Voltage Testing work sheet.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Load Test a Battery

Tools Required: Voltmeter/Load Tester

Time Required: 15 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too be able to test a battery condition to determine if it is still in good condition. Sometimes a battery will become defective and unable to start the engine.

Job Description:
Start with a suitable fully charged battery.

  • Connect the red connector of the voltmeter to the + positive post of the battery.
  • Connect the black connector of the voltmeter to the – negative post of the battery.
  • Flip the switch on the Voltmeter/Load Tester and hold in the on position for a maximum of 10 seconds. Any longer will do damage to the battery.
  • DO NOT flip this switch while the engine is running. It could cause damage to the alternator and charging system.
  • Record your readings and compare them to the chart on the Voltmeter/Load Tester.
  • When finished return all tools to the proper location.

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Booster Cable Connection

Tools Required: Booster Cables

Time Required: 15 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too be able to start a car when a battery charger is not available. Sometimes people leave their lights turn on or listen to the radio for long periods of time, this will cause a dead battery and the car will not start.

Job Description:
Start with two cars.
Connection Process;

  • Sort the cables out so the cables are straight and the red and black ends are not touching.
  • Connect one of the red ends to the dead car + positive battery terminal.
  • Connect one of the black ends to the dead car - negative battery terminal.
  • Connect the other one of the red ends to the good car + positive battery terminal.
  • Connect the other black end to the engine block or metal bracket of the good car. DO NOT connect directly to the battery. This could create a large spark and cause an explosion.
  • Start the good car and let it run for a minimum of 5 minutes before starting the dead car. If you do not wait it could cause damage to the good car.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Test and Adjust Tire Pressures

Tools Required: Compressed air line, tire pressure gauge, tire inflator.

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is too measure and set your tire pressures to the proper settings. Most cars have a recommended pressure setting on the inside of the driver’s door. Proper pressure saves gas!

Job Description:
Start with a car that has four tires.

  • Locate the proper setting from the tag on the driver’s door.
  • Measure the pressure inside the tire with the tire pressure gauge.
  • Add air with the inflator and recheck. Keep in mind that the tire may fill at a rate of 1 PSI (pounds per square inch) per second. So, if it is 5 PSI too low, leave the inflator on for 5 seconds and then retest.
  • Test the tire PSI again. If there is too much air in the tire, release some by pressing on the centre valve core unless you hear air escaping.
  • Continue unit all four tires are set to the correct level.
  • When finished return all tools to the proper location.
Make a job write-up and hand it in to you instructor

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Job Name: Wiper Blade Replacement

Tools Required: Flat screwdriver or a Car Ignition Key.

Time Required: 10 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is for you to change your own wiper blades on your car. This is a relatively easy job and can cost as much as $100.00 in a garage. Wipers are an important safety feature of a car when it rains.

Job Description:
Start with a car that has proper wiper blades that can be removed and serviced. Check with your instructor if you are unsure.

  • Determine which type of wiper clip you are dealing with
  • Some systems require you to press on a tab
  • Some systems require you to pull on a tab
  • Some systems require you to pry off the wiper from a pivot pin
  • Once removed examine the mounting system further for future reference.
  • Install the wiper blade or reinstall the old one if a new one is not available.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Complete a write-up and hand in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Disc Brake Pad Replacement

Tools Required: Slider Bolt removal tool (Allen Key, Torx, Socket)
C or F Clamp

Time Required: 40 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to be able to replace your won brake pads. This job can cost anywhere from $500.00 to $2000.00 in a garage however the parts will probably not exceed $100.00. Brakes are a money maker for most garages and they are fairly easy to work on.

Job Description:
Start with a car that has worn brake pads or a shop car that is still intact. There are many types of brake systems, all are different.

  • Turn on the ignition key so that the steering wheel is free and the ignition is not on.
  • Remove the front wheels from the car.
  • Before you remove the slider bolts you must compress the piston back into the calliper.
  • The piston must be completely bottomed out in order for the new pads to fit on the front brake system
  • Remove the front slider bolts (ask your instructor if you are not sure)
  • When the slider bolts are off the calliper should be able to lift off of the rotor.
  • If rotor replacement is required see your instructor
  • Install the new brake pads and reinstall the slider bolts.
  • Make sure the brake pads have the friction material against the rotor surface.
  • Torqueing these bolts is very important. If the bolts are too loose the brakes will fall apart, if they are too tight the bolts will break.
  • Notify your instructor that you are ready to reinstall the wheel. Your instructor needs to verify that the brakes are installed correctly and the proper bolt torque has been done.
  • Reinstall the wheel and torque the wheel mounting nuts.
  • Pump the brake pedal hard a minimum of 10 times to reset the calliper pistons. If this step is not done the car can operate with ZERO brake ability. VERY DANGEROUS
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Complete a write-up and hand in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Car Wash

Tools Required: Pressure Washer, Car Soap, Wash Brush.

Time Required: 40 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to understand the correct procedure for washing a car. An automatic car wash can cause damage to the vehicle finish and panels. When you wash it by hand the paint finish will last much longer.

Job Description:
Start with a dirty car and do not perform this job in direct sunlight.

  • Fill a bucket with warm soapy water
  • The pressure washer tip SHOULD NEVER BE CLOSER THAN 30CM OR 12 INCHES to the paint surface.
  • Pressure wash the entire car removing the heavy dirt.
  • Once the entire car is wet it is safe to start scrubbing with the wash brush soaked with soapy water.
  • Start at the top and work your way to the lower part of the car.
  • A common mistake is to not scrub the same areas twice. This is important; every part of the car must be done twice.
  • When the entire car has been washed a complete and prolonged rinse is best. Take your time rinsing all the soap off.
  • Sometimes a chamois is used to dry off the water.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Complete a write-up and hand in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Remove and Reinstall an Alternator

Tools Required: Various wrenches, small pry bar, assorted sockets.

Time Required: 60 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the ability to replace an alternator on your own car one day. Often the alternator will fail and without it the car will only run for about one hour. They are easy and cheap to repair yourself if you decide to go one step further.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs an alternator removed.

  • Remove negative cable at battery
  • Study how the engine belt is routed before touching it, if you need to; make a sketch of the routing.
  • Remove engine belt/serpentine belt.
  • Locate and remove the large power cable on the back side of the alternator. Make sure the battery has been disconnected first.
  • Unplug the smaller harness
  • Unbolt all the mounting bolts – two or three bolts
  • Lift alternator out of the brackets.
  • Disassemble to repair or reinstall the same alternator or install a new one.
  • Bolt into place.
  • Reattach the wires and cables
  • Reinstall the engine belt.
  • Connect the negative battery cable
  • Start the engine and test the alternator with a voltmeter.
  • Record your voltage findings and wrench sizes.

Make a write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Remove and Replace a Cooling System Thermostat

Tools Required: Sockets, ratchet, drain pan, 

Time Required: 40 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the ability to replace a thermostat in an engine. Often these parts will fail causing either engine overheating or engines running too cold leaving the passengers very cold in the winter.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or customer’s car that needs a thermostat. Make sure it is a cold engine, if it is too hot to hold an engine part, do not attempt. Wait for it to cool.

  • Locate and open the radiator drain valve
  • Make sure you drain the coolant into a CLEAN drain pan.
  • Open the radiator pressure cap to ease the drain process
  • Locate the thermostat and determine the socket size for the bolts. The hose does not usually need to be removed.
  • Remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place.
  • Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat.
  • There are some test procedures for these stats but it is much easier just to change this inexpensive part.
  • Clean the housing mounting surface and if there was a gasket make sure it is totally cleaned off.
  • Sometimes a knife or sandpaper is needed to remove the stubborn gasket.
  • Install the new thermostat with the spring on the bottom side. (in most cases)
  • Position the new gasket and thermostat in the proper location.
  • Start the bolts but only tighten them with your fingers.
  • Tighten the bolts alternately until they begin to get tight. Torque the bolts to the recommended torque. Do not exceed 35 ft/lbs.
  • Refill the cooling system, pressure test the cooling system to check for leaks.
  • Start the engine and test for overheating, this may take upwards of half an hour.
Make a write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Clean and Pack Wheel Bearings

Tools Required: Dust Cap Remover, Side cutters, Adjustable Wrench, Grease, Varsol.

Time Required: 40 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to be able to service wheel bearings. These parts are becoming more and more rare on modern cars since they are now non-serviceable. It is important to know how to service them if you have these on your car.

Job Description:
Start with a car with either tapered front wheel bearings or tapered rear wheel bearings. Check with your instructor if there is an available vehicle.

  • Remove the wheel
  • Remove the dust cap
  • Remove the cotter pin if available.
  • Remove the castle nut
  • Remove the tongue or D washer. This washer prevents the nut from spinning when the car is driving.
  • Remove the outer wheel bearing
  • Remove the entire hub assembly.
  • Remove the inner wheel bearing and grease seal with a drift punch.
  • Wash everything with varsol and dry.
  • Repack with clean grease. There is a technique for this that your instructor must show you.
  • Reassemble the hub, inner wheel bearing and grease seal.
  • Install the assembly onto the spindle stub.
  • Install the outer bearing, non-rotating washer and nut.
  • Tighten the nut to 40 ft/lbs and then back off the nut about 1/3 of a turn. The reason for this is to allow grease to flow between the metal parts.
  • Install the cotter pin and dust cap.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor

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Job Name: Remove and Replace Engine Belt

Tools Required: Various wrenches or sockets.

Time Required: 20 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the ability and understanding of how belts run many accessories. If a belt fails it could result in engine overheating, power steering loss and loss of battery power.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer vehicle that needs a new engine belt. Note or even draw a picture of how the belt is routed around the pulleys. A picture is very beneficial when trying to reinstall the belt.

  • Locate the belt tensioner or adjuster
  • Loosen tensioner idler and allow some free play in the belt
  • Remove the belt when the tension is moved far enough
  • Examine the belt to see if it is showing signs of wear.
  • Reinstall or install a new belt.
  • If it is a spring loaded tensioner, you are done.
  • If it is a manual tensioner you need to consult the manufacturer specifications or consult your instructor.
  • Having the belt too tight will and can cause engine bearing damage from the side forces on the crankshaft.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

______________________________________________________________________________________ Back to the top

Job Name: Remove and Reinstall a Radiator

Tools Required: Assorted sockets, clean drain bucket, pliers, line wrenches, screw drivers.

Time Required: 90 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the skills required to replace a radiator on you own car. These items often fail during operation in the summer heat.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs a radiator repair.

  • Locate the radiator drain valve and drain the coolant into a clean drain bucket.
  • Test the coolant, if its freeze point is between 0 C and -30 C it will need attention. If it is too dirty to see through it will need to be replaced.
  • Remove all the top mounts and shrouds from the top of the radiator.
  • Remove the cooling fan from the inboard side of the radiator.
  • Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses where they meet the radiator.
  • If the transmission is an automatic the radiator will have cooling lines for the transmission. Special line wrenches are required to remove these lines.
  • Once all the hoses and lines have been removed the radiator should be able to be raised out of the lower mount.
  • The radiator can be repaired by a Radiator Repair Shop or a new one can be installed. If it is a shop car the radiator can be reinstalled now.
  • Reconnect everything, fill with coolant and then pressure test the cooling system with a radiator pressure tester.
  • Some cars have a special fill procedure for the coolant. This is usually due to air being trapped in the engine. Follow the manual of the car if in doubt.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Re and Re front wheel drive McPherson Strut

Tools Required: Jack, Safety Stands, Wheel Removal tools,

Time Required: 90 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the skills required to repair suspension components when problems occur.

Job Description:
Start with a suitable car that has a McPherson Strut in the front of the car with front wheel drive.

  • This should be a two person job to make it safe for everyone.
  • Remove the front wheel, brake calliper, brake rotor and drive axle nut.
  • Remove the brake flex line where it attaches to the strut and hang the calliper with a wire to support it.
  • Disconnect the sway bar link where it meets the strut if it is fastened to the strut.
  • If you are replacing the springs only, the alignment adjustment does not need to come apart, if you are replacing the strut an alignment will most likely be required.
  • Locate the place that you plan on separating the strut from the suspension at the bottom. It could be the ball joint, alignment bolts or knuckle mount. Check with your teacher.
  • Once the bottom is disconnected you can start on the top.
  • DO NOT UNDO THE CENTRE TOP BOLT!!!! This is the bolt that holds the spring in place. The spring could fly out and hurt you.
  • Unbolt the two or three surrounding strut bolts (usually smaller than the large centre bolt).
  • Be careful while unbolting the last bolt, the strut may fall. Have a helper hold the unit in place.
  • Now the strut should be able to come out easily.
  • Use the proper tools to cage the spring while working on the strut unit.
  • Reinstall in the reverse order.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Air Filter Cleaning

Tools Required: Screwdriver, Assorted Sockets

Time Required: 10 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to extend the life of your air filter if driving in a dusty environment.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs a new air filter.

  • Locate the air filter housing
  • Remove the intake air hose where it fastens to the air filter housing.
  • Release the clips or screws that fasten the two halves of the air filter box together.
  • Carefully remove the upper half of the air filter box.
  • Remove the air filter
  • To test the cleanliness of the filter, hold it up to a work light and look through it. If it does not show light well, replace it.
  • Try cleaning the filter with compressed air only.
  • If it still appears dirty, replace it.
  • Reassemble the air filter box while making sure all the screws or clips are properly installed.
  • Reconnect the air intake hose and tighten the clamps.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Remove and Reinstall a Radiator

Tools Required: Assorted sockets, clean drain bucket, pliers, line wrenches, screw drivers.

Time Required: 90 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the skills required to replace a radiator on you own car. These items often fail during operation in the summer heat.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs a radiator repair.

  • Locate the radiator drain valve and drain the coolant into a clean drain bucket.
  • Test the coolant, if its freeze point is between 0 C and -30 C it will need attention. If it is too dirty to see through it will need to be replaced.
  • Remove all the top mounts and shrouds from the top of the radiator.
  • Remove the cooling fan from the inboard side of the radiator.
  • Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses where they meet the radiator.
  • If the transmission is an automatic the radiator will have cooling lines for the transmission. Special line wrenches are required to remove these lines.
  • Once all the hoses and lines have been removed the radiator should be able to be raised out of the lower mount.
  • The radiator can be repaired by a Radiator Repair Shop or a new one can be installed. If it is a shop car the radiator can be reinstalled now.
  • Reconnect everything, fill with coolant and then pressure test the cooling system with a radiator pressure tester.
  • Some cars have a special fill procedure for the coolant. This is usually due to air being trapped in the engine. Follow the manual of the car if in doubt.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Re and Re front wheel drive McPherson Strut

Tools Required: Jack, Safety Stands, Wheel Removal tools,

Time Required: 90 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the skills required to repair suspension components when problems occur.

Job Description:
Start with a suitable car that has a McPherson Strut in the front of the car with front wheel drive.

  • This should be a two person job to make it safe for everyone.
  • Remove the front wheel, brake calliper, brake rotor and drive axle nut.
  • Remove the brake flex line where it attaches to the strut and hang the calliper with a wire to support it.
  • Disconnect the sway bar link where it meets the strut if it is fastened to the strut.
  • If you are replacing the springs only, the alignment adjustment does not need to come apart, if you are replacing the strut an alignment will most likely be required.
  • Locate the place that you plan on separating the strut from the suspension at the bottom. It could be the ball joint, alignment bolts or knuckle mount. Check with your teacher.
  • Once the bottom is disconnected you can start on the top.
  • DO NOT UNDO THE CENTRE TOP BOLT!!!! This is the bolt that holds the spring in place. The spring could fly out and hurt you.
  • Unbolt the two or three surrounding strut bolts (usually smaller than the large centre bolt).
  • Be careful while unbolting the last bolt, the strut may fall. Have a helper hold the unit in place.
  • Now the strut should be able to come out easily.
  • Use the proper tools to cage the spring while working on the strut unit.
  • Reinstall in the reverse order.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Air Filter Cleaning

Tools Required: Screwdriver, Assorted Sockets

Time Required: 10 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to extend the life of your air filter if driving in a dusty environment.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs a new air filter.

  • Locate the air filter housing
  • Remove the intake air hose where it fastens to the air filter housing.
  • Release the clips or screws that fasten the two halves of the air filter box together.
  • Carefully remove the upper half of the air filter box.
  • Remove the air filter
  • To test the cleanliness of the filter, hold it up to a work light and look through it. If it does not show light well, replace it.
  • Try cleaning the filter with compressed air only.
  • If it still appears dirty, replace it.
  • Reassemble the air filter box while making sure all the screws or clips are properly installed.
  • Reconnect the air intake hose and tighten the clamps.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

ake a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor. ______________________________________________________________________________________ Back to the top

Job Name: Ignition Wire Replacement

Tools Required: Screwdriver

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the skills required to perform simple tune-up tasks. These wires operate with 60,000 to 80,000 volts in them and they do break down over time.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs a tune-up.

  • It is a good idea to replace one ignition wire at a time; this will prevent a mix up of the wires.
  • If you are replacing them with pre-made ignition wires, make sure you have the correct set for the model of car you are working on.
  • A screwdriver may be needed to release the clips that fasten the wires to the engine brackets.
  • Once all the clips have been released you can start changing the wires.
  • Lay the old wire out straight on a work bench and measure it against the new wires. Choose the closest matching wire.
  • Continue until all the wires have been changed.
  • Fasten all the clips to hold the wires secure.
  • Start the engine and test the operation.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Locate and Test a Blown Fuse Problem

Tools Required: Test Light, Voltmeter, #194 bulb or similar bulb.

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to locate a shorting electrical circuit and diagnose simple electrical problems.

Job Description:
Start with shop car or a customer car that has an electrical problem. Most electrical problems should start with a proper test of all the fuses.

  • Locate the fuse panel/panels in the car. Some cars have a fuse panel in the dash along with a power distribution box under the hood.
  • Connect the clip lead of the test light or the black lead of the voltmeter to ground (anything metal under the dash or battery negative).
  • Turn the ignition key to the run position.
  • Using the other end of the test light, probe the top edge of the fuse on both sides of the amperage number.
  • The test light should light up twice per fuse, once on the left once on the right.
  • If only one side of the fuse makes the light go on, then that fuse is blown. Remove it and replace it.
  • If the fuse blows again, install the #194 bulb in place of the fuse. Ask your teacher how.
  • An electrical manual is needed now. Search for the grounding or short-to-ground electrical problem. When you find it or disturb it, the light bulb will go out and a fuse can then be installed.
  • Common problems are coins inside the lighter, trailer hitch wires and aftermarket add on items such as lights or radios.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Wiper Arm Removal and Reinstall

Tools Required: Screwdriver, assorted sockets.

Time Required: 20 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to prepare a car for a windshield replacement, repair wiper pivots or replace the wiper arms

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs wiper arm work.

  • Determine the removal method of the wiper arm.
  • Some arms have a sliding clip on the bottom side of the mount. Some have a nut under a plastic cover.
  • Use a piece of masking tape on the windshield to locate the exact position of the wiper arm before removing it.
  • Lift the arm off of the windshield and slide the clip or undo the nut.
  • By raising it off the glass it relieves the stress at the pivot making it easier to remove off of the pivot.
  • Remove the arm.
  • Reinstall the arm
  • Test the operation and make sure it does not interfere with the wiper on the other side.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Checking for DTC’s with an OBD II Scanner.

Tools Required: Snap-On 2500 Scanner

Time Required: 30 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to diagnose and retrieve the onboard computer codes that will be stored while the ‘SES’ or ‘Check Engine’ light is on.
Acronyms to know; OBD = Onboard Diagnostics, DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code, MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine).
VIN = Vehicle Identification Number, DLC = Diagnostic Link Connector.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or customer car with the MIL on. Your teacher can make a shop cars MIL go on.

  • Turn on the scanner and enter your vehicle type and VIN number. This will tell you where the DLC is located.
  • Locate the DLC under the dash or on some older cars, under the hood.
  • Use the proper connector for the DLC and connect it. If your scanner has not been turned on yet, it will once you connect.
  • A special key may be required for the OBD II style connector; the scanner will tell you which one.
  • Scroll through the scanner and pick ‘codes and data’. Y is yes and N is no or the back button.
  • A list of codes will appear. An OBDII code looks like - P0133.
  • Write these codes down for the customer and for your own records.
  • Now scroll through the scanner and find the ‘Trouble Shooter’ section. Pick ‘Code Tips’ and then choose your code number.
  • A series of tests and checks will appear to help you repair the fault. See your teacher now.
  • Exit out of this section when finished and a line will appear ‘Clear Memory’ or ‘Clear Codes’.
  • Choose this and follow the directions. This will make the MIL go out and restore the computer to normal operating conditions.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Under-Hood Inspection – (Part of the Exam)

Tools Required: Clean Towel, Screwdriver, Testlight.

Time Required: 20 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to inspect your own vehicle before a long trip or a weekly inspection is always required.

Job Description:
Start with a customer car or a shop car. The checks are listed below and a brief description of what you will look for.

  • Oil Level – oil clarity, level and type, for topping it off.
  • Brake Fluid – oil clarity, level and type, for topping it off.
  • Transmission Fluid – oil clarity, level and type, for topping it off.
  • Power Steering – oil clarity, level and type, for topping it off.
  • Coolant - fluid clarity, level and type, for topping it off.
  • Wiper Washer Fluid – this should be kept full.
  • Air Filter – Remove and inspect for dirt.
  • Engine Belts – Check for cracks and wear.
  • Radiator Hoses – Check upper and lower for cracks or bulging.
  • Battery Connections – Check for corrosion and tightness.
  • Ignition Wires – Check for oil spills and neatness.
  • Under-Hood Fuses – Test all fuses with a testlight.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Spark Plug Replacement

Tools Required: 5/8” or 13/16” Spark Plug Socket, extensions, swivels, 3/8” ratchet.

Time Required: 60 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the skills required to replace a set of spark plugs to get the best fuel economy possible and to not damage cylinder heads.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or customer’s car that requires new spark plugs.

  • Remove a single ignition wire at a time. These wires CAN NOT be allowed to get switched around.
  • Determine the hex size of the spark plug and install the socket and ratchet, extensions may be required.
  • The spark plug socket has a rubber insert inside it to grab the plug so it can be removed. Remove it.
  • Check the spark plug ‘gap’ with a gauge before installing. See your teacher.
  • Use a short piece of 3/8” rubber gas line to reinstall the spark plug. Push the hose onto the white part of the spark plug.
  • Twist the rubber hose between your fingers until the spark plugs is threaded into the cylinder head. This should be easy to turn and when using the hose it will prevent cylinder head damage due to cross threading.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the spark plug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Spark plugs do not need to be really tight.
  • Reinstall the ignition wire.
  • Repeat these steps for the remaining spark plugs.
  • Save all the old spark plugs to show the customer.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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Job Name: Oil Change and Inspection

Tools Required: Assorted wrenches, Oil Filter Wrench, oil drain bucket, rags, gloves.

Time Required: 40 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to be able to understand the steps needed to perform your own oil changes when you purchase your own car.

Job Description:
Start with a shop car or a customer car that needs an oil change.

  • Support the vehicle on safety stands at least 40cm off the ground.
  • Locate the drain plug and use ONLY the box end of the wrench to loosen this plug.
  • Once loose, use your fingers to remove the plug. If the drain plug is hot to the touch the oil will burn your hands. Do not remove until you allowed it to cool or you are wearing gloves.
  • Remove the drain plug and position the drain bucket to catch the draining oil. STAY WITH THE BUCKET until the oil stream is tiny.
  • Reinstall the oil drain plug – DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  • Locate the oil filter and the correct sized wrench to fit it.
  • Before loosening, have the bucket ready since it will leak too.
  • Loosen and remove the oil filter
  • Make sure your new filter matches the oil filter in every way.
  • Apply a thin layer of oil to the rubber oil filter seal and reinstall.
  • DO NOT USE THE WRENCH to tighten the oil filter. Hand tight is fine, have your instructor check this.
  • Continue with the inspection –
  • Add 4 liters of oil (most cars) and check the level on the dipstick before starting the engine
  • Start the engine; let it run for 30 seconds, check for leaks while running. Turn off the engine.
  • Check the oil level and top off. Re-check the oil level.
  • Start the engine again and let it run for 3 minutes, re-check the oil level again.
  • Complete the inspection form. (photocopy the next page)
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

______________________________________________________________________________________ Back to the top

Complete Routine Vehicle Inspection Points              Date: ____________
Student Names: _______________ ________________
Vehicle Inspected: ________________________________


Checked

#

Inspection or Job Description

 

1

Change oil and oil filter

 

2

Lubricate all grease fittings

 

3

Check for loose or worn steering links

 

4

Check for loose or worn undercarriage components

 

5

Check for rusted or damaged exhaust pipes

 

6

Inspect CV Joint boots for leakage of grease

 

7

Test all tire pressures and adjust to recommended pressure

 

8

Measure tread depth and record

 

9

Check all light bulbs including reverse and stop lights

 

10

Test antifreeze strength and adjust to at least -35 degrees C.

 

11

Check transmission fluid level with engine running in PARK.

 

12

Check powersteering fluid with engine turned off.

 

13

Check brake fluid level.

 

14

Check windshield washer fluid level

 

15

Inspect all belts for wear and adjustment

 

16

Inspect all radiator hoses for leaks

 

17

Inspect radiator cooling fins for damage or separation

 

18

Inspect air filter using light method

 

19

Check and clean battery cable connections

 

20

Load test the battery at HALF the CCA for 10 seconds

Teacher Signature: ___________________________

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Job Name: Disassemble an Alternator

Tools Required: Air Gun, Safety Glasses, Assorted Sockets, Ratchet, Assorted Screwdrivers, Soldering Iron, Textbook.

Time Required: 60 minutes

Rational: The reason for this job is to study and understand the mechanical to electrical conversion inside the alternator. A voltage regulator is a cheap part and can easily be changed without the need of a new alternator.

Job Description:
Start with an alternator that is rebuildable and removed from the car. It is recommended that you consult the textbook to understand the components first and during this job.

  • Use the air gun and a socket (usually 15/16”) to remove the nut and pulley from the front.
  • Centre punch the housings to create an alignment guide for reassembly.
  • Locate and remove the housing bolts around the outside
  • Gentle tapping with a small hammer will separate the two housings.
  • Some alternators need to have the stator de-soldered before the housings will separate.
  • Pay close attention to the assembly of the brushes, they are spring loaded and the spring could fly away. (Safety Glasses Required)
  • Remove the voltage regulator.
  • Use an ohmmeter to test the slip rings for shorts. Test the electromagnet portion of the rotor.
  • Prepare for reassembly, a paper clip is required to secure the brushes temporarily.
  • Reassemble the voltage regulator and housings. Use the centre punch marks for the correct alignment.
  • Reinstall the housing screws and the pulley.
  • If possible, reinstall on the shop car and test the operation of the alternator.
  • When finished return all tools to their proper location

 

Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

______________________________________________________________________________________ Back to the top

    Alternator Project Questions.

    Copy these questions into your notebook and hand in the answers when completed.

    • 1)     What and where are the brushes?
    • 2)     What and where are the support bushings?
    • 3)     Locate and describe the rotor
    • 4)     What is the function of the slip rings?
    • 5)     Is your alternator internally or externally regulated?
    • 6)     Test the stator for open circuits.
    • 7)     Test the rotor for open circuits.
    • 8)     What and where is the stator?
    • 9)     Test a working alternator for voltage with the engine running.
    • 10)  If your alternator is externally regulated, how do you bypass the voltage regulator ?

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    Job Name: Safety Inspection Check Points

    Tools Required: Air Gun, Safety Glasses, Assorted Sockets

    Time Required: 120 minutes

    Rational: This is the actual list that a licensed mechanic will follow during a safety inspection. If you purchase an uncertified car, you will need to follow this list to do your own inspection before sending it to a garage.

    • Bodywork - underbody - holes in floor, wheel wells or truck area.
    • Bodywork - hinges and latches - doors, hood - check for play or wear
    • Bodywork-sheet metal and bumpers - sharp edges
    • Seat and Seat Belt Assemblies
    • Chassis Frame Components
    • Mirrors - cracked, missing
    • Glazing Materials - cracks, chips
    • Windshield Wiper, Washer and Defroster
    • Speedometer
    • Lamps and Reflectors
    • Headlamp Aim
    • Fuel system components
    • Exhaust Systems components
    • Brakes-drums and discs
    • Brakes-friction materials
    • Brakes-hydraulic system components - brake hoses, lines
    • Brakes-mechanical components - emergency brake
    • Brakes-air system components - trucks
    • Brakes-vacuum system components - power brake booster
    • Brakes-parking brake performance, adjustment
    • Brakes-service brake performance, adjustment
    • Brakes-emergency brake performance
    • Brakes-dual system warning - air system
    • Horn - electric and air
    • Accelerator Linkage
    • Steering-column and box
    • Steering-linkage
    • Steering-power assist
    • Suspension-ball joints
    • Suspension-springs
    • Suspension-other items
    • Neutral starting switch
    • Tires - tread life, wear, pressure
    • Wheels-rims and fasteners
    • Trailer Hitches - trucks, car trailer hitch
    • Fifth Wheel (truck-tractor)

    Additional for Motorcycles

    • Wiring
    • Footrests
    • Steering Head Bearings
    • Handlebars
    • Stands
    • Chain and Guards

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    Job Name: Coolant Condition Test

    Tools Required: Coolant Tester (Antifreeze Tester)

    Time Required: 10 minutes

    Rational: The reason for this job is to determine if your coolant will withstand a c-c-cold Canadian winter. Southern Canada requires a minimum of -35 deg Celsius. More northern climates should be set to as cold as -50 deg Celsius. If your coolant freezes, during the expansion process it will crack the engine block and destroy it.
     
    Job Description:
    Start with any car in the auto-shop with liquid in the cooling system.

    • Locate the radiator cap
    • Make sure it is cool to the touch NEVER OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHILE IT IS HOT.
    • Insert the tester hose into the coolant
    • Squeeze the bulb on the top and allow the coolant to draw up into the tester.
    • Make sure the amount of coolant in the tester is above the ‘fluid level’ line.
    • Hold the tester level and upright.
    • Read the freeze point on the scale and record the number from both scales; metric and imperial.
    • Squeeze the bulb and return the coolant back into the radiator or reservoir
    • Replace the radiator cap.
    • Rinse out the tester before you return it to the tool board.
    • When finished return all tools to their proper location

    Complete a write-up and hand in to your instructor.

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    Job Name: Scratch Removal

    Tools Required: Touch-Up Paint (if required),1500 grit or 2000 grit sandpaper, Rubbing compound (liquid), Low Speed Polisher, Wax, Polishing Towels.

    Time Required: 40 minutes

    Rational: The reason for this job is to gain the knowledge and skills required to repair a scratch in a painted car panel.

    Job Description:
    Start with a shop car that has a scratch in the paint or a customer car that is in need of repair. If the scratch is not completely through the paint then skip the first step.

    • Clean scratch groove and apply a thin film of touch-up paint. Repeat the applications until the touch-up paint is above the surface of the original paint. This could take several days.
    • Use the 1500 grit sandpaper on a foam block or soft rubber sanding block. Do not use your fingers only.
    • Soak the paper in soapy water and use generous amounts of soapy water during the sanding process.
    • Sand for only 30 seconds and check your work by drying the area and inspecting the paint for smoothness. Repeat until the area is hazy and uniform.
    • Apply a small amount of compound and use the slow speed polisher on the area that has been sanded.
    • Take your time, stop and check your work repeatedly. Keep a clean polishing towel close by to clean up.
    • When you feel it is perfect, add a generous amount of wax several times to bring the paint back to its original shine.
    • Only use the wax on the very last step.
    • When finished return all tools to their proper location

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Job Name: Exhaust System Inspection

    Tools Required: Channel Lock Pliers, Gloves, Safety Glasses

    Time Required: 10 minutes

    Rational: The reason for this job is to be able to inspect and locate problems before they appear. A damaged exhaust system can cause carbon monoxide to enter the cabin causing serious bodily damage.

    Job Description:
    Start with a shop car or any vehicle found on a hoist

    • Begin at the front of car and locate the exhaust manifold.
    • Search for black soot around the manifold where it meets the cylinder head.
    • Locate the manifold to pipe joint and inspect
    • Locate and inspect the flex pipe, cracks will appear here often.
    • Catalytic converter should be checked for soot next.
    • Everything from the catalytic converter back is usually made of thinner tubing, therefore rusting out sooner.
    • Locate the resonator and inspect rotted pipes and leaks. This can be tested by trying to squeeze the pipes with the channel locks.
    • Locate and do the same test around the muffler.
    • Locate and test the pipes from here to the rear of the car.
    • Finally, with a helper, start the car and inspect for noises and exhaust leaks while the engine is running. Be aware of moving engine parts.
    • When finished return all tools to their proper location

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Job Name: Crimping a Wire Connection

    Tools Required: Wire Crimpers, Wire Cutters, Crimp Connectors, Wire.

    Time Required: 10 minutes

    Rational: The reason for this job is to be able make a strong and proper wire connection that will not overheat or fall apart

    Job Description:

    • Start with a short length of electrical wire. 10 CM’s.
    • Using the wire strippers, strip about 10MM of the wire insulation off of the wire to expose the copper conductor.
    • Slide the crimp style connector onto the wire so that all of the exposed copper is inside the metal area of the crimp connector.
    • Use the correct crimp portion of the pliers and squeeze the crimp connector.
    • If it is proper made the connector should not be able to be pulled off of the wire.
    • Continue and crimp the other end of the wire.
    • Test the wire by pulling from both connectors.
    • Use an ohmmeter to test the continuity of the circuit.
    • Record your findings.
    • When finished return all tools to their proper location

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Work Sheet
    Starting Systems

    Step 1: Test your starter to see if it operates properly.
    This can be done by using a battery and a set of booster cables with the starter mounted in a vise. Locate the ‘solenoid’ or ‘S’ terminal on the starter solenoid. By jumping or crossing out this terminal with the ‘Battery’ terminal, the starter should spin

    Step 2: Disassemble unit completely – Field coils do not need to be removed

    Step 3: If unit did not operate in step 1, determine what the problem could be.

    Step 4: Locate and be able to identify the part and purpose of that part when asked by your instructor.
    **Refer to Automotive Mechanics Text Book page 275 – 283**

    Step 5: Test the commutator on the armature for ‘shorts’ and ‘ground outs’. Use an ohmmeter.

    Step 6: Test brushes for spring tension and wear.

    Step 7: Test end bearing wear, commutator wear, and pinion wear.

    Step 8: If you have been tested while all of your parts are disassembled. Proceed to reassemble your unit. Retest starter for proper operation.

     

    Copy the questions from page 283 in the Automotive Mechanics textbook and answer on a piece of paper for handing in. Copy the entire question and correct answer only.

    Draw one diagram showing the basic magnetic principle inside a starter.

    Draw one diagram showing the electrical circuit.
    Include key switch, neutral start switch, primary relay (5 terminal), primary solenoid, starter solenoid, and starter motor.

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    Job Name: Soldering Wires

    Tools Required: Wire Solder, Soldering Iron, Safety Glasses
    Wire Cutters, Wire Strippers, Wire.

    Time Required: 15 minutes

    Rational: The reason for this job is to be able to make a strong and proper wire connection that will not overheat or fall apart.

    Job Description:

    • Start with a short length of electrical wire. 10 CM’s.
    • Using the wire strippers, strip about 20MM of the wire insulation off of the wire to expose the copper conductor.
    • Make the exposed copper wire form an X.
    • Twist the left wire over the right wire starting in the middle.
    • Twist the right wire over the left wire starting in the middle.
    • Twist the entire connection until it is tight and free of sharp edges.
    • Heat the wire with the soldering iron in the centre of the connection.
    • Introduce the solder to the wire, NOT THE IRON, When the wire is the correct temperature, the solder will melt into the wire.
    • Do not speed the process by melting the solder with the iron.
    • When you finish the solder should be evenly distributed through the entire 20 MM area.
    • Tape up the connection to prevent it from shorting out.
    • Use an ohmmeter to test the continuity of the circuit.
    • Record your findings.
    • When finished return all tools to their proper location

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Job Name: Vehicle Information Form

    Tools Required: Pen, Measuring Tape, Tire Pressure Gauge, Assorted Tools.

    Time Required: 30 minutes

    Rational: Everyone that drives a car on a regular basis should know a few things about that car. If nothing else, that person should record the information so it can retrieved in a moment. Some things are VERY important to know as a vehicle owner, for example, if you mix long life antifreeze with regular antifreeze you can cause severe engine damage.

    Job Description:

    Start with any car in the shop or even your parents car. Fill in the blanks below

    Vehicle Identification Number:
    ______________________________________________
    License Plate Number:
    ______________________________________________
    Year of Vehicle:
    ______________________________________________
    Make of Vehicle:
    ______________________________________________
    Model of Vehicle:
    ______________________________________________
    Engine Size/Displacement:
    ______________________________________________
    Transmission Type Manual/Automatic
    ______________________________________________
    Front Wheel Drive/ Rear Wheel Drive/ 4X4
    ______________________________________________
    Summer Tire Size:
    ______________________________________________
    Winter Tire Size:
    ______________________________________________
    Headlight Bulb Part Number:
    ______________________________________________
    Tail Light Bulb Part Number:
    ______________________________________________
    Recommended Tire Pressure:
    ______________________________________________
    Coolant/Antifreeze Type
    ______________________________________________
    Motor Oil Type:
    ______________________________________________
    Transmission Fluid Type:
    ______________________________________________
    Paint Code:
    ______________________________________________
    Wiper Blade Length - Left and Right:
    ______________________________________________
    Air Conditioned Yes/No:
    ______________________________________________
    ABS Equipped Yes/No:
    ______________________________________________
    Oil Filter Part Number:
    ______________________________________________
    Air Filter Part Number:
    ______________________________________________

     

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Job Name: Transmission Filter Change

    Tools Required: Drain Pan, assorted small sockets and wrenches, transmission funnel, clean towels.

    Time Required: 30 minutes

    Rational: The reason for this job is to be able to replace a customers transmission filter and fluid. Many shops can do this job but few do it correctly. We will do it properly. Most shops 'suck' the fluid out of the transmission, this is cutting corners and not recommended.

    Job Description:

    • Start with a customers car or suitable shop car.
    • Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
    • Locate the transmission oil pan and determine if it has a drain plug or the pan needs to be removed.
    • Drain the fluid and/or start removing the oil pan bolts. IMPORTANT - leave 2 bolts 180 degrees apart, then install 2 bolts beside these bolts - install only with 2 turns. Be careful of hot fluid !!!!!
    • Now remove the two bolts 180 deg apart and allow the pan to rest on the two bolts you installed with 2 turns.
    • Wiggle the pan to make sure it will not spill fluid on you.
    • Slowly and carefully remove the 2 remaining bolts and lower the pan into the drain bucket.
    • Wash the pan in the parts cleaner tank.
    • Remove the transmission oil filter - looks like a flat plate. The best idea is to order the new one first to see what it looks like.
    • If you are replacing the gasket, remove it and clean the surface. (some gaskets are reusable)
    • DO NOT USE SILICONE ON TRANSMISSION PANS. - Some transmission shops still do not know this is harmful to the transmission and transmission fluid will attack the silicone and leak.
    • Install the new filter.
    • Install the new gasket on the transmission pan - A thin film of spray glue is helpful in holding the gasket in place. It is important to install the gasket dry.
    • Research the proper oil pan bolt torque - Transmission shops often over-torque these bolts and this will damage the gasket.
    • Torque the bolts to the proper specs - NO POWER TOOLS.
    • Add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube - This requires and special funnel.
    • Add three liters and test the level. Continue adding fluid until the level is between the ADD and FULL marks. Remember, the engine needs to running and you must run the shifter through the gears. Test the level after every liter.
    • When the level is correct, test for leaks and operation.

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Replacing Tie Rod Ends

    Tools Required: Wheel removal tools, Side Cutters, assorted sockets, jamb nut wrench, ball joint remover, vernier caliper, torque wrench.

    Time Required: 30 minutes

    Rational: Front end or steering work on a car is considered a specialty. If you can master the basic steps and processes you will be able to perfom these simple jobs yourself. Make sure to obey the bolded text below.

    Job Description:

    • Remove the front wheels from the hub.
    • Use side cutters to remove the cotter pin at the tie rod end nut.
    • Use an air gun or wrench to remove the tie rod end stud nut.
    • Now position the ball joint remover fork in the gap between the tie rod end and the steering arm.
    • Gently loosen the jamb nut on the steering rack where the rod end meets the rack.
    • Hammer the ball joint remover until the end seperates from the steering arm. Use safety glasses
    • Using the Vernier calipers measure a distance from the tie rod end to the steering rack. This will be a reference point so you can install the new tie rod end very close to the original location. Write this measurement down.
    • Turn the tie rod end out of the rack. Count the turns and write the number of turns down.
    • Install the new tie rod end, count the turns and double check the measurement
    • Install the stud into the steering arm and install the nut. Torque this nut to factory specifications.
    • Install the new cotter pin into the castle nut and stud.
    • Reinstall the wheel and torque the wheels nuts.
    • Recommend to the customer to have an alignment done as soon as possible.

     

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Amperage Test on a Circuit

    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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    Make a job write-up and hand it in to your instructor.

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